I’ve just upgraded from Windows Live Space to WordPress, so all my posts from my Space have come here. If you are here for the first time, and would like to read my articles in order as they were published in magazines and newspapers, please scroll down and read from the bottom up 🙂
August 2005
As the time crept closer for us to get on the plane to leave Armenia, I dreaded it. Although I hoped our absence from Armenia would only be for a short break (five weeks), my heart grew heavier every minute that passed as we sped towards the airport at the spookily deserted hour of 3.30am. We passed a few shops that were still open and then, before I knew it we were getting our passports stamped and were in ‘no-mans-land’, waiting to board the plane. I kept thinking of all the people we were leaving behind. The many friends we made. The passionate, loving and undyingly friendly Armenian people who find a reason to celebrate every day of their lives, no matter how much or little they have.
So we set off for Vienna, where we spent a very beautiful four hours in the city. Besides the pastries, I have also fallen in love with the architecture there. It’s given me the itch to maybe even put my hand on some architecture books for a further look into it all. The most interesting thing about the buildings is the faces that are carved into the exterior of a lot of the buildings, usually above each window. Some are angels and some are fierce and scary.
We then continued on the flight to Australia and arrived to a cool 14 degrees. Previously, I would have considered this ‘cold’, but after experiencing Armenia’s snowy February weather, it’s almost warm. Having said that, the day before we left Armenia it was 36 degrees!
I couldn’t help but smile once we were inside the airport and heard the Aussie accent. One lady asked Nune`, our four year old, to move her leg so she could pass and after Nune` obliged the woman said “You beauty!”
One phrase I miss is “Tzavet danem!” (let me take your pain away). In Armenia it is used all the time in conversation, and in many contexts. Another popular one is “Voch inch.” Which can mean many things from “It’s nothing” to (after asking someone how are you) “Whatever.” (I always answered to people “Lav” or “Shad lav”(good/ very good) rather than vouchinch, which can project a negative attitude.) And of course I miss being called ‘Rose-Leah djan’.
One of the things that really hit me in the first half hour back was the money difference. A milk shake and some fries (they call them ‘free’ in Armenia) cost AU$4.50 in Australia. I’m used to the four of us eating out on a feast for AMD4000 (AU$10)! Even the sound of the money is so different. My parents were shocked at first when I said that a litre of milk (when you go to Armenia, buy the ‘Ashtarak’ milk in the carton, it’s the best tasting) cost three hundred and fifty drum! (about AU$1).
As I predicted, one of the things I really miss is being able to look out our sunroom window and see Mt Ararat.
We’ve also come back to the water shortage that is plaguing Australia. If there are any drinking fountains here, you have to turn it on when you drink. In Armenia the drinking fountains are constantly flowing.
Our children are gradually adjusting back to Australia. It took them a while to remember that a lot of people in this country can’t speak Armenian! I admit that I have fallen for it once or twice, like saying thank you in Armenian to an Aussie behind the counter. But that’s not too unusual for me, considering that during the labour of our 2nd child, three years ago I answered the midwife in Armenian and Dikran had to translate!
I’ve already started to compile my list of things to take back to Armenia with us. Peanut butter, I know, I could make my own, but it’s not the same as good old Aussie Kraft peanut butter. I can almost taste it right now, spread on a big piece of fresh Lavash and rolled up.
The week leading up to our departure of Armenia, we saw on ninemsn.com.au that all the Snickers and Mars bars in NSW had been taken off the shelves due to a poisoning threat. Well, we used this as our excuse to buy lots in Yerevan and eat them!
I must say it has taken me a while to tone down my appearance to blend in here. I’m used to Armenia where a woman gets dressed up even to go to the corner store. Even though I didn’t have to do it, I did because it felt good. I’m currently doing a ‘halfway’ approach which is as far underdressed as I will go, without standing out too much.
The shop assistants are different in Armenia than here. In Armenia they are there to serve and used to follow me around the store, rip open packets to show me products and be ready to sell me one of something if I didn’t want the whole packet.
How interesting that the ‘impulse’ products in Armenia are makeup, stockings and lollies and in Australia they are mostly lollies with the occasional magazine.
The first time we went to a shopping centre after we got back, the kids were a little cautious. Because they are so young they don’t remember a lot about Australia and in Armenia we only went to the only real shopping centre (Tashir) twice. So they entered one here with wide open eyes and slow walking, just to absorb all the colour, lights and not to mention all the people.
Ah, when is the next flight to Armenia?
July 2005
Just as I started to think that this summer weather isn’t really as hot as what I’ve been told it is, BANG! Along comes 36 degrees during the day and still 28 degrees at midnight. With this weather there’s a real sleepiness hovering, as one of our friends’ father put it “The Mediterranean without the sea.” You get to sleep around 2-3am and struggle to get out of bed at 9.30am and then try not to doze off around 3pm!
After being here a bit over five months, I’m still amazed by the amount of construction that’s happening around. On the ground level of our building, over the past two months they have completely taken everything out of the apartment including the kitchen, demolished a few walls and now they have started plastering and painting. The outside of the apartment, which used to be just concrete, has been, incredibly, covered with yellow sand.
There has been a renovation in an apartment in the building across from us too, with new windows, roofing, painting etc. On a small hill near the garages for our building there is a new building going up where previously there was just grass (and rubbish). Near one of our corner shops there is what looks like an apartment building or office building being built. A building in our street that was just getting started when we arrived five months ago has been completed; it is a beautiful characteristic apartment building. The Northern Avenue project is progressing nicely.
When we walk in the park from Saryan St. to Mashtots St. there are many fountains, which most are not working. Whether this has something to do with the enormous amount of construction that is happening in the area or not, I don’t know. I’ve seen quite a few fountains around the city that are not working. I feel a ‘fountain fund’ should be made! Or maybe someone needs to come here and show the council how councils should be run, so they are profitable, or at least make enough money to look after their parks and gardens, and fountains. I don’t think they have lawn mowers here. The past weeks the council has made repairs to some of our street, which is great. I’ve been told the streets get so many holes because of the snow in winter. There was also a campaign of posters and television ads a few weeks ago, encouraging people to clean up and use the rubbish bins around the city.
The family on level one of our building has just bought a new Mercedes and another friend has just bought a new Chrysler. These people are hard working family men.
A lot of comments and fun has been poked at police in Armenia. I’m one of the many people who think they are a real laughing stock. With their big guts hanging out, twirling their battens while waiting to collect their next bribe. They pull people over who have done nothing wrong and only let them go once they get some money. They smoke, sit and slouch around while ‘on duty’. The funny thing is they think they’re cool, meanwhile it’s nothing to see a motorist pass a policeman after being motioned to pull over (in which case the policeman does nothing), or for a policeman to try to stop an argument and being told to shut up. I really have great respect for the fit and disciplined Australian police force. Lately I’ve found out some interesting facts about the police here. They have to maintain their own police car. To get into the police force you have to pay a bribe. They get a very little wage, if any. Whatever money they can take from the public, they keep some and have to give some to someone higher up, who then keeps some and gives some to someone higher up and so on. It’s no wonder the police are the way they are, the whole system is stuffed. The uniform is very Soviet and needs a complete overhaul, especially the huge hat! We recently had a conversation about all this with a friend, whose husband is taking on candidacy for President (of Armenia). The police situation in particular seems such a huge change to try to make, but in her opinion “It can be solved with kindness.” This is coming from a lady who moved to Armenia from the USA with her husband and children 14 years ago.
There are a few things I have come across the past few weeks that have made me sad. Things that as a tourist you know nothing about, you don’t see. Like any other country, Armenia has an ‘underground’ or, as I like to call it an ‘underbelly’. Like the people trafficking ring out of Armenia to mostly Dubai (unfortunately Armenia is not the only country that has this problem). Like the orphans that, once they turn 18 get kicked out of the orphanage and have nowhere to go, no one to turn to. One 18 year old orphan boy committed suicide not long ago and three girls were trafficked to Dubai, for the ‘glamorous life’ as they were told, but they found out on arrival they were there to be prostitutes, where their pimp ripped up their passports.
A friend here, Sylvie, who is an Armenian from the UK has started an NGO (Non Government Organization), Mer Doon, and is doing a project of renovating a house for 18 year old orphans where they can live and have guidance. Mer Doon also organizes scholarships for them at University. Sylvie’s philosophy is it’s great to have Diaspora sponsor a child to live, but what about after they turn 18? What about their future and what about their mortgage? The website http://www.mer-doon.org/ includes the mission of Mer Doon; more information and photos. This much needed project is giving the youth of Armenia hope for the future.
Another great website is http://www.blogrel.com. It’s created by a British guy, Matt Macolmson. He’s not Armenian, but knows more about what’s happening in Armenia and around the world about Armenians than most Armenians.
I came across the Christian Youth Mission to Armenia website, http://www.cyma-wd.org/blog/, where the young Diaspora people blog about their time and internships in Armenia. It is a very interesting insight.
The public of Armenia and the Diaspora recently had a great victory in saving Shikahogh State Preserve from a new highway being put through it. This has been the first victory for the ‘peoples’ voice in Armenia; hopefully it is a sign of great things to come.
Our family recently enjoyed ice-cream amongst the tree tops at a unique café called ‘Atlantic’. It is situated between the Opera House and the Northern Avenue construction site. You go upstairs to an ‘all open’ paradise of green leaves, cool breeze and a guy who plays the violin like magic. The bonus is you can see out over Northern Avenue and the construction, a view which you wouldn’t normally see. The service is very fast and good.
Another place to go, especially if you are a football fan, is Café Tifosi, on Teryan St. The owner is football mad and has a huge collection of memorabilia downstairs, from a David Beckham signed jersey to UEFA tickets over the years. Their pizzas are named after famous players. At the entrance he’s got a huge Liverpool FC shield. It’s great for the kids too because they get a toy and a bundle of football trading cards and stickers to play with while you eat.
As we drag out the suitcases and start packing for our trip to Australia, part of me is excited at the thought of seeing family and friends, however a large part of me is dreading leaving Armenia and all the things I’ve come to love.
Like the lady at the fruit and veggie stand who always smiles and says “Barev, Vondzes?” (hello, how are you?) She’s taught me the names of the fruit and is very happy with my progress in learning Armenian).
The young woman at the corner store who tries her hardest to speak English to me.
The constant surroundings and sounds of construction (call me crazy, but I don’t mind the sawing, hammering and machinery because to me it signifies improvement).
The sound of groups of children playing outside, riding bicycles, kicking a ball, playing a game with chalk and stones and generally hanging out together.
The well groomed, charismatic fruit and veggie man who parks outside our building three mornings a week to sell his just picked produce. He stays for about three hours and has a constant swarm of people around him.
The drinking fountains everywhere providing cold fresh spring water.
LAVASH, yes I’m still in love with that bread! If I take some in my luggage, will it be mouldy and stale by the time we reach Australia?
Watching the birds flying circles over the entire city at sunset.
Sunset
The Mediterranean clock; ‘first thing in the morning’ means between 10.30am and 11am. It took us two months of being here until we finally gave in to it.
The comradeship amongst the Diaspora Armenians who live here.
The way our almost-three-year-old-blonde-haired-boy jumps into the back of the taxi, leans forward and says to the driver “Barev, Vondzes?” which is usually met with laughter and a “Lav, toon Vondzes?” I wonder what the Aussie taxi drivers will say when he does the same there?
The fact that at any time of day or night you can turn on the TV and watch an Armenian Folk Dance concert or watch Armenian Pop music video clips.
The view of Mt Ararat from our sunroom window.
Mt Ararat from our sunroom
And I haven’t even started on the ‘non-Yerevan’ parts!
Hopefully we won’t be away from Armenia too long.
June 2005
Most times when you take a trip you go from A to B, however the past few days we experienced a trip in Armenia, which is an A to Z, with the entire alphabet in between – there is so much to see!
While Yerevan is enjoying 30 degree heat, we decided to take a much needed break to the country. We took up the offer from a Yerevan friend, who is, amongst other things, a Bed & Breakfast owner, to stay for a few days at his B&B, ‘Zorats Qarer’, in Sisian.
Sisian is 217km south of Yerevan, has a population of 15,000 and has been inhabited for more than 2000 years.
I looked forward with anticipation to the end destination; however I was not prepared for the little treasures along the way. As we sped along the highway, going up and down mountains the countryside was a feast for the eyes, not to mention relaxing. Growing up in country Australia, I was not unfamiliar with the surroundings, but Armenia country proved to be something unique. The vertical rock mountains caused me to look in awe, and then there were the endless fresh spring water fountains (blblaks) that dot the highway, horseman herding their cattle along. The rolling alpine pastures covered with bright red, yellow and purple wild flowers were breathtakingly beautiful. The fruit sold along the roadside proved to be extra tasty, just picked.
As all this went by I was again reminded how I am truly living a dream.
We turned off the highway onto a road which winded through a narrow canyon, then up a steep mountain to Noravank Monastry – my first experience of ancient Armenian architecture. The most amazing thing, we all agreed, was how did they create the dome of stone blocks on the roof? On the way back to the highway we passed a group of young people that had gotten out of their bus and were dancing to loud Armenian music on the roadside. There is always a reason to celebrate in Armenia.
As we continued our trip we passed a few road works, which is encouraging, many Iranian trucks and little self sufficient villages. We came to the highest point of our journey, 2250 metres above sea level, which is also the crossing point from Vayots Dzor marz (state) to Syunik marz. It was marked with a stone arch and (what else) a large blblak with freezing cold fresh mountain spring water pouring out. I haven’t seen so much water freely running in many years, considering Australia’s droughts. With the risk of sounding naïve, I am amazed at the fact that we left Yerevan in 30 degree heat and only a few hours later we are in the mountains where there is snow on the peaks. There really is nothing better than cool fresh mountain air.
We arrived at the farming town of Sisian and went to the Bed & Breakfast. The owner may be a friend; however I have always been truly honest when writing. The B&B was to ‘western’ standard. It had running hot water 24 hours, modern bathrooms and décor, great service from the hosts (Gevorg and Seda) and it really gave the feeling of ‘home away from home’. The most beautiful aspect of this four room B&B was the view, which overlooks the whole town of Sisian, including the Vorotan River which snakes it way through the town. When you stand quietly you hear silence, except for the occasional ‘ribbit’ from a frog in the river.
For dinner we went to a restaurant that is built like a castle, with stand alone private rooms or outdoor dining and, believe it or not, two live bears in a special enclosure out the front! We ordered and as we waited for dinner I heard a noise so I went to investigate. Going past out the front, on the main road, with a river on the other side, was a shepherd herding his sheep…only in Armenia.
Restaurant that looks like a castle
Needless to say, we had a very peaceful and quiet sleep that night. The next day we spent the morning relaxing and explored the caves which the B&B has in their backyard. I can not stress enough, this country has got huge potential, in so many areas, and people have started to take note of that.
Before lunch time we headed off 20 minutes to Uzut village, where they have a natural outdoor hot spa bath. Along the way we stopped at Vorotnavank Monastry, which was built in 1000AD. The land, including grave yard and other buildings is quite large and looks down over the river. The carvings and general architecture is spell-binding and I was totally swept away by this site. Thankfully there is a plaque stating its restoration and preservation control is being looked after by an Armenian library in Massachusetts, USA.
The hot spa had natural minerals and was very relaxing. We felt the effects continue the rest of the afternoon, as we stopped in Sisian at a restaurant with no name (I’m not joking, the waitress didn’t know, you should have seen the look on Dikran’s face!) for lunch. Although no one knew the name of the restaurant, they had very good table service because on each table they had round wooden blocks, attached to nothing, but when you pressed the top a bell would ring (like magic) in another room, so the waitress would come. This was invented by some guy living in Yerevan.
On returning to the B&B we rested and then walked 100 metres to the famous Sisian Church ‘Sourp Hovhannes’. They actually have a mini museum (or mini Ripleys Believe it or Not!) where you can see the craftsmanship of a man who lives in Yerevan. He has carved the Armenian alphabet onto a strand of a man’s hair, and the Lords Prayer on a grain of rice. We lit a candle and proceeded outside where there was a grave yard and monument for the Sisian men who were killed in the Karapagh war. Some were only 20 years old when they died. A saddening moment of reality.
The US Ambassador to Armenia, His Excellency, Mr John Evans and his lovely wife Donna, arrived as planned at the B&B, for unofficial sightseeing which we decided to do before sunset. We went to the biggest waterfall in Armenia, Shake Waterfall. His Excellency climbed very close to the water fall and said he could feel the heat behind him and the coolness in front, coming off the waterfall. There were two young women at the base of the falls, boiling Armenian sourj (coffee) on an open fire.
Shakeh Falls
On the way back to the B&B we stopped at ‘Qarahunje’, the Armenian Stonehenge. It was a very mystical sight, where we all couldn’t help but wonder what happened here, and what were all these stones set for.
Qarahunje
On our arrival back to the B&B, a dinner of delicious Armenian kebab (khorovatz) and salads was ready. It was delightful to see His Excellency and his wife eating Armenian food with great enthusiasm. The discussion over dinner was very interesting and educational for me, for the most of it was about the wars and politics of Armenia and surrounding countries. There are many things that have happened over the years in this region that we never heard about in Australia.
The next morning, we took the drive to the famous and historic Tatev Monastery, built in 895AD. On the way we stopped and walked the narrow path, high above the river gorge, to a stone gazebo where, the legend goes, an Armenian girl threw herself into the gorge at that picturesque spot, rather than be forced into marriage with a Muslim Prince. Tatev Monastery is a huge complex of many buildings and rooms and built like a fortress for, as I was told, they had to fight off other religions who attacked them, for that was the time that many believed in the ‘Sun God’ etc.
After, we drove on to Goris where we had delious lunch of Dolma at ‘Khachik’ Bed & Breakfast. Goris is only 45 minutes from Karapagh and these people experieced bombing in the war, they hid under their house in a cave during that time. Having said that, their B&B is very clean and neat and again, a home away from home.
Lunch with the Evans’ in Goris
Goris
We parted company with the US Ambassador there, as he was going on to the border and we returned to Sisian, to collect our bags and make our way back to Yerevan.
After going up and down many mountains we were coming down a mountain and the view in front of us was Mt Ararat. I had never seen it at this angle before and the whole time we were coming down the mountain and then drove along beside Ararat, I couldn’t take my eyes off it. It is both beautiful and huge, and I guess like anyone who has been looking at photos of it for many years, I still can’t quite believe I’m here seeing it.
This trip was short, but full of many memories. I look forward to our next adventure in Armenia.
28 May 2005
Summer is well and truly on its way in Armenia. At present we are enjoying mostly sunshine with the occasional thunder storm. It reminds me a lot of Australian weather. The grass and trees are unbelievably green and many of the fountains around the city are functioning. Just yesterday evening we sat by the fountains in the Square, at the front of the history museum, it was very relaxing and there was a small crowd doing the same.
One of the many beauties about being here are the drinking fountains with water that comes direct from the springs. They are all around the city and they taste of pure water, no chemical.
The attitude and peoples way of thinking here can be categorised easily. You have one group that are from the Diaspora, they are ‘westernised’ and welcome other like thinking people and any new ideas. Then there are the Armenians who are from Armenia, but they have lived abroad for a period of time (anything from nine months to many years), these people can see the potential that Armenia presents and business wise, they are making the most of a developing country. They understand the ‘western’ ideas immediately. Then there are the post-Soviet people who have never left Armenia, and who take time to, firstly understand the ‘western’ ideas and secondly, believe it can actually be done in Armenia. A few of these people are catching on to ‘western’ ideas immediately. To sum it up, they are all very nice people, but some need more time to understand concepts and believe that ‘it can be done in Armenia’. Of course this is very general categorising and there are exceptions to the groups.
Woman drivers are scarce here, however the past few weeks I’ve seen quite a few, which brings me great joy, maybe it will help people on the roads be more considerate to such things as pedestrians!
As summer is on its way the coats are off and the summer clothes are on. Let me say that the women here are very beautiful. One of the biggest things I’ve noticed is how they look after themselves and when they’re in public they ‘present’ themselves, as opposed to the Aussie “I’m just popping down to the corner shop, so I’ll chuck on my tracky pants and t-shirt” approach. And they are all so slim. Rarely do you see an overweight Armenian woman. Needless to say when you’re walking the streets in Yerevan you feel you are in a catwalk parade, with all these lanky models with full make up and wearing the latest fashion. Well maybe that’s an exaggeration, considering the tourists have started to pour in and amongst all the slim Armenians there’s the ‘comfortable weight’ tourists in their holiday clothes!! I know, I’m being completely politically incorrect, but hey, it’s the truth!
I brought with me to Armenia my Aerobics Oz Style videos (which have really come in handy, considering all the variety of delicious fresh breads and pastries here!). But it’s not just the exercise I’m enjoying, but the accent!! CNN comes in handy too if you feel like hearing the Aussie accent, as they have at least two reporters/newsreaders who are Aussie (yes, we are very proud!). Around Yerevan you hear American accents and many European; however Aussie is a bit harder to come by. The cutest accent I’ve heard is a dear friend of ours, who we only met a few weeks ago (that’s Armenia for you, you meet someone and within a few weeks you feel like you’ve known each other for years!) anyway, he is an Armenian from Armenia, however he lived in Australia for nine months and he has worked a lot here with the American Diplomats and Embassy (and therefore Americans) so his (very good) English is with an American accent mixed with some Aussie slang and accent. His greeting to us is “G’day Mate!”
It is making Dikran and me very happy to see so much Armenian and English being spoken and written on signs here now. When we first arrived we were amazed about how much Russian there was, but it’s being faded out now.
I knew the internet is an amazing thing, however I am appreciating it that little bit more these days as it is keeping me up to date with news in Australia on ninemsn.com.au. When we were in Australia I would look up a1plus.am every day to get the latest news on Armenia, now I look up every couple of days ninemsn.
The latest figures show there are some 10,000 Repats living in Armenia. While this may be positively mind-blowing for some, to me it’s not enough. An article was recently published in the Yerevan Times Newspaper (a newspaper in English which is distributed in Repat and tourists hangouts), with the headline ‘Genocide and the Armenian Response in the 21st Century’, it is taken from a talk given by Armen Ayvazyan PhD, at Royal Palace, Glendale, on 19 April 2005. He is Adjunct Assistant Professor of Political Science at the American University of Armenia, and Senior Researcher, Matenadaran, at the Yerevan Institute of Medieval Manuscripts. His article made very good points, outlining Armenia’s population statistics from Soviet days to present, including the idea of Repatriation. Here is an excerpt from the article:
“There are two basic all-Armenian objectives for the mid-term, having in mind the real challenge of land and demography: 1. Preservation of land – Armenia and Artsakh should retain for the coming decades all the land they now control; 2. By 2025, Armenia should have a population of 4 million, by 2050 – 6 million, and by the turn of the century – 10 million….
These are realistic Armenian National objectives.
But in the 21st century, land is the most precious strategic asset. Armenians, better than anyone else, must be aware of this elementary reality. Ironically, too many of them lack this awareness. Too many Diaspora Armenians relish a national identity that is devoid of psychological attachment and commitment to their homeland. A Diaspora identity of this type is deeply flawed and doomed to rapid acculturation and assimilation. Too many Armenians have never engaged with their homeland. There are several ways of engagement:
1. Direct economic engagement: the opening of a business in Armenia.
2. Political engagement: Lobbying the interests of Armenia in the decision-making structures of host countries;
3. Ideological engagement: the promotion of Armenian interests in the media of host countries and the neutralization of Turkish-Azerbaijani anti-Armenian propaganda;
4. Cultural Engagement such as contributing to the education, science and cultural life of Armenia;
5. Entertaining engagement such as tourism in Armenia; and
6. Repatriation, with its huge development potential….
Engagement through repatriation contains answers to almost all Armenian problems. The April 24 demonstrations that took place thousands of miles from Armenia are an admirable manifestation of third and fourth generation patriotism amongst the Armenian Diaspora. These demonstrations, while taking up the moral repercussions of the Genocide, are inherently incapable of addressing its consequences as it relates to land and demography.
Repatriation is virtually absent from the agendas of Diaspora organisations and the Republic of Armenia. Indeed repatriation is an almost taboo subject at all manner and levels of Armenia-Diaspora meetings and deliberations. There has been no interest in organising mass repatriation. Ironically, globalisation, which has had a generally negative and damaging impact on Armenia, now presents an unprecedented opportunity to address repatriation at individual and collective levels. This includes Armenia’s liberal visa policy, increased mobility, media and information access worldwide, and the availability of Diaspora capital to maintain homes and establish businesses in Armenia. Funding and investing in repatriation should become one of the most important national programmes amongst the Diaspora.
Even a moderate repatriation would address many of the problems facing the Armenian nation and state:
The acknowledgement and condemnation of the Armenian Genocide is not worth a penny if it does not entail a process of compensation. The Armenian nation lives at a time of great challenge. It can either grasp opportunities to create a full-fledged Armenian statehood, or face the possibility of losing everything.”
And….
“….Young Diaspora Armenians could play an extremely important role in the formation of a new political elite in Armenia that could meet the requirements of the 21st century. Of course, they would first have to make the crucial choice of living their lives in Armenia and to thus actively participate in their homeland’s political, economical and cultural processes…….”
Amen
24 April 2005
We literally just got back from Dzidzernakabert. It’s 8.30pm, my feet are sore, my soul is satisfied. We spent the day at home, with the television on the channel that was broadcasting live the march to Dzidzernakabert. From early morning we saw thousands of people doing the march. We had decided that going after dinner, around 7pm would be best for the kids, aged two and four. By then we assumed the crowd marching would have toned down to just a few hundred. How wrong we were! The taxi that picked us up took us by a scenic route, the best way to get there on a day like this. There was the river, people picnicking and some swimming. The taxi stopped, as that was as close as he could get to Dzidzernakabert. So we joined the throng of people marching. When we were half way up a hill, Dikran said “Look behind you” I looked and there was an endless stream of people, ahead of us was the same. We were all marching for one reason, to remember, show respect and lay our flowers. There were no categories, no rich, no poor, first class, middle class, tourist or local, just Armenians (and a few non-Armenians) marching in the thousands, to remember.
What amazes me is this had been happening all day. People march to Dzidzernakabert, enter, lay their flowers, pause, and then exit and march away. It‘s all a bit overwhelming. Now it’s almost dark and on television people are still filing through. The pile of flowers around the flame is basically over everyone’s head, and in the centre the flame burns bright, giving the message that Armenia, the country, its people, will live on forever.
Lately we have been experiencing an array of cultural performances in Yerevan. After dining at Square One, we walked to the Opera House. Along the way we came across some buskers who, at that moment, were not playing. A friend who was with us threw money into their case and they began to play. With pleasure we stopped and listened for a few minutes, quite amazed by the quality of music coming from the Duduk, drum and accordion.
We entered the Opera House, which in itself was quite breathtaking. As the performance began and the Duduk played, I couldn’t help but think to myself that here I am sitting in the Opera, in Yerevan, listening to my favourite Armenian music (folk) and watching one of my favourite things about the Armenian culture, the folk dance. And not being danced by just anyone, the State Dance Ensemble. By the look of sheer exhilaration on their faces as they danced, you can see that they do it because they love it. The sold out crowd wanted more and they gave more. There were some unbelievable routines, including high jumps, knees to feet and back again, spinning and from the women a cross between Armenian folk dance and ballet.
One afternoon we took the kids, along with some friends, to the Circus. While at the Circus a friend met an American (non-Armenian) who, with his wife and two children, are in Yerevan to help out local businesses. The Circus was enjoyable and the clowns quite funny.
The fountains are being scrubbed and cleaned, the gardens are being dug and planted, and outdoor café’s are popping up everywhere. The grass is bright green, tourists have started to flood in. The funny thing is I feel like a local now and so I spot the tourists, but when the tourists spot me they probably think I’m a tourist!
My Armenian language development is going well. I now venture to the store and buy groceries with usually no problem, and if I can’t communicate what I want, I simply mime. This has proven to be hilarious at times, getting the sales assistant and myself in stitches. Like when I went the other day to buy candles, I tried asking if they sold them. She couldn’t understand what I meant, so this resulted in me miming lighting a candle. After much laughter from the both of us, she said they didn’t sell them (I later found them at another store, 300AMD for 6).
A few restaurant reviews:
De ja vu Café and Restaurant, on Mashtots St.: ‘WOW’ 10 out of 10 in service, food and décor, you go upstairs to enter a café, then down a spiral staircase to go to the restaurant. The restaurant has an ancient Roman ruins theme including a two storey waterfall which ends in a pond with a bridge across it. The ceiling has been painted as if you are looking up out of ancient ruins to a blue sky with birds flying overhead.
Our Village Restaurant, on Sayat Nova St.: an authentic Armenian Village experience with a live village band, wood covered menus and hand made pottery crockery, including the ‘wineglasses’. Rugs on the floor, lavash hanging from the ceiling. Food is great.
Cactus Mexican Restaurant, on Mashtots St.: authentic Mexican cuisine and décor. I didn’t think you could find something like this in Armenia, amazingly authentic. Food is great. Amazing point number two: the bathrooms! They are ‘state of the art’, even with sensors on the taps in the hand basin.
SFC – Southern Fried Chicken, on Tigran Medz St. (near the Republic Square): Think KFC, excellent, and they have a no-smoking section and a kid’s indoor playground.
H1 television station is a government funded station here (24hours), and it can also be seen in the USA, all over Europe and the Middle East. Great news for everyone in Australia, it’s coming to you in September.
The only frustration I have about living in Armenia is with the Diaspora Armenians who think that Armenia is poor and desperate. Wether they have come to this conclusion after a week long stay or because they have never actually been here but have heard all the ‘beggars on the streets stories’, I don’t know, but it really annoys me that one can have such a negative image of their Fatherland. There are beggars on the streets; there are beggars on the streets of Paris and Rome too. There are poor neighbourhoods, there are poor neighbourhoods in the USA and Australia too, and these are the people who do need help from the NGO’s (Non-Government Organisations) and the Government. There are many infrastructures that have been developed over the last five to 10 years, there are still more infrastructures that need to be developed, like the roads and council, and the garbage collection. Just a few weeks ago Yerevan Council put out 3000 rubbish bins in the streets, to teach people where to put their rubbish, instead of leaving it in the street. Things are constantly improving and the more Diaspora who visit Armenia, the more that get involved in the development process (and they are involved) the better for Armenia.
If you come to Armenia expecting it to be like, and comparing it to Australia or the USA, you could be disappointed, because you would be expecting a baby to run a marathon. Armenia has improved much faster in the last 13 years than it had the last 100 years.
29 March 2005
As we stepped out the taxi and started to walk along the paved path I took a deep breath, preparing for any feelings that may come about because of where we were and where we were walking to.
We had woken in the morning to a clear blue sky. Mount Ararat was perfect. We decided that today was the day to visit Dzidzernakabert, the eternal flame that burns in memory of all those that died in the 1915 genocide.
Before reaching Dzidzernakabert we drove around Yerevan a little (our taxi driver’s name was Harout, he has a battle wound to his leg from when he fought in Karapagh. He is a wonderful man who we asked for specifically from the taxi company). We stopped for a minute at Netsys, an Armenian-American joint venture Internet Service Provider. As we continued through the city the grass is beginning to green and the trees are tipped with buds of leaves, just waiting to burst with green, spring is here! (funny enough a few days after this trip ‘Crazy March’ (as the locals call it) hit and it has been snowing for a few days now!) The cafés in the parks are preparing to open in time for the busy tourist season. We passed the New York City Bar, complete with a Statue of Liberty; the Ancient Rome Restaurant, complete with pillars; the brand new Yerevan city council building, made of stone and standing grand. Mini buses bumped along beside us with the many Mercedes and BMW’s and of course the little Russian massed produced cars, the Volgas and the Djigulies (old FIAT).
We stopped at Sassoondzi Davit statue to admire the man with his sword on a powerful beast of a horse. In front of it were people selling flowers, so we bought some white carnations to lay at Dzidzernakabert.
When we reached Dzidzernakabert and began to walk along the path many thoughts came to my mind. The documentaries I’ve seen about the 1915 genocide; the graphic and sickening photos that had disturbed me so I will never forget. The books I’ve read of people’s experiences during this time, of the great loss of souls and land. I remembered the stories I’ve heard from Armenians alive today whose ancestors had perished, the slain families, those who suffered.
Each step we took was purposeful and I was proud to be here and to remember. We came to a new statue ‘Mother rising out of the Ashes’, which was donated in 2002 by a family from Pasadena, California, USA. The statue is of a woman holding her toddler and running in fear, while looking back. I clutched my four year old’s, Nunè’s, hand tighter and glanced at Dikran holding our two year old Haroutig. I could not help the tears as I read the plaque ‘…in remembrance of all the Armenians that lost their lives in the 1915 genocide’. I paused and stood in silence. Our children, who are normal young people who can not stand quietly in one place for more than a minute, just stood in the silence with us.
‘Mother rising out of the Ashes’ statue
We walked along further and saw all the pine trees that have been planted, along with plaques, by Armenians and officials from all over the world, in remembrance.
As we returned to the path to face the great stone Dzidzernakabert there was a construction site. We were told that the Genocide Museum which is down the hill a little further is moving closer for easier access and they have been working on it day and night to have it finished in time for April 24, 90 years of remembrance.
We continued to walk along the wide paved path. To the left I saw snow capped mountains and to the right, the city below us. Ahead, was the place where so many Armenians come to remember and show their respect. For a moment I thought “This is the centre of all Armenians, the symbol of a series of events that caused so many to lose loved ones and so many to spread all around the world. This moment belongs to my children, to their heritage, so they will remember why they are living today.”
We walked down the stairs and stood in deafening silence with stone all around us, as tears flowed and blurred my vision of the eternal flame.
We laid our carnations and took photos to show Dikran’s parents later how we showed respect, how we remembered.
Tzitzernakabert
Tzitzernakabert
As we walked up the stairs and outside, parts of the city were pointed out to us ‘the American University is over there, see that building?’ ‘Mother Armenia statue is over there’. But I must confess, I looked and nodded, but my mind was not there, I was still numb and remembering, my mind was still in 1915, with the souls that were lost, families that were ruined and great sadness that you feel in your heart when you remember.
On April 24 Armenians from all over the world are coming to Armenia, to remember that which happened 90 years ago.
The other day we drove close to the Turkish boarder. The taxi driver pointed out the boarder fences and behind them was our great Mt Ararat, mostly in cloud, but there.
On a lighter note, on the weekend we went with some friends, to Marco Polo Restaurant (complete with maps painted on the ceilings and sculptures in the walls, food is great). After, for dessert, we decided to go to Square One. However as we entered we found it was packed full capacity plus two groups of people waiting. We asked how long for a seat, they told us 20 minutes. So, considering the four toddlers that were with us, who were eager for some ice cream, we decided to walk to Artbridge Café (if you like books, arty surroundings, it’s Heaven). Lucky we found one table left for us.
When we went to Tashir shopping centre the other day, it was packed full of people and it is obviously more expensive to buy there than in the many markets around Yerevan.
The American Embassy has finished being built and they are about to officially open it. It is the largest American Embassy in the world.
I have never considered myself any kind of writer really, however being here in Armenia I find inspiration at every turn. It’s as if Mother Armenia has a message for me, to write what I see and pass it to the Diasporas, so they can know our motherland is not poor, it is not dead. It is very far from it and it is flourishing with every passing minute (just ask the construction workers who are working through the night all over the city).
Here is my first ‘Life in Armenia’ article, from Febuary 2005:
Every morning begins the same in our home. We look outside to see how the weather is, then rush to the sunroom windows in anticipation of getting a glimpse of beautiful Mt Ararat. If there is no cloud and mist Mt Ararat is so clear it takes your breath away. Even if you can’t see it on a cloudy day you still have full faith that the gigantic wonder is there, watching over Yerevan. I always pause for a silent minute just to absorb that I am here, seeing what I consider one of the wonders of the world. And Dikran was right when he had told me in the past that the photos do not do it justice….Mt Ararat is huge!
Mt Ararat from our sunroom
For me, moving to Armenia has become a spiritual experience; I never expected to feel this way. We’ve only been here three and a half weeks but I can feel this country is different.
During our first few days in Yerevan we stayed in a hotel. From the window we witnessed snowfall, young boys playing football in the snow with an empty coke bottle and even a wedding procession which included a three piece band (duduk, drum and accordion) outside the door of the groom’s house and then they all came back again a few hours later for more music, beeping horns and dancing in the street.
Dikran introduced me to Lebanese bread 12 years ago. I thought it was great. But it’s nothing compared to the breads here! Lavash is my favourite (the thinness of paper and the size of a coffee table). The bread is always fresh and there is an abundance of it.
I did over a year of research about Armenia before we arrived here. I am enjoying the thrill of seeing things that I’ve read reports about / seen pictures of. Like Northern Avenue (the mall being built from the Opera to the Republic Square). It’s an enormous construction site presently, inching its way towards completion. On every block throughout the city there is at least one whole building being built or renovated. Some streets have every second building knocked down and a new one is being built. Armenia is moving ahead.
Northern Avenue construction
‘Tashir’ is the newly renovated (from Soviet days) shopping centre. It looked good from the outside, however when we entered I said to Dikran “This is impressive”. After living in Sydney and experiencing Westfield Shoppingtown and Chatswood Chase Shopping Centre I didn’t expect to see the same standard here yet, but I was pleasantly surprised.
The other day we went for a drive along the new highway (which includes a brand new bridge that previously didn’t exist) there are many new houses being built. There are new subdivisions, lands for sale. One whole suburb in view from the road is a security entry American style houses complete with rolling green lawns. We also passed fruit orchards along the way.
Back in the city, we have visited a few times and ordered delivery the other night, from Square One. It’s a café/restaurant ‘American style’ hamburgers, chocolate cake, apple pie, spaghetti, pizza etc. Nice.
Also I saw advertised on TV the other day ‘Come and Go’ which advertises ‘American Sourj (coffee)’ and baked potato with a selection of dressings (similar to what we have in Australia). I’m yet to visit the brilliant Armenian Cuisine restaurants that I’ve heard so much about. (We’ve been eating a lot of the above food, just at other people’s houses!)
That brings me to TV. The free to air studio sets are modern and funky and mostly young people are doing the job. It’s all very professional. There is one station that is the kids channel, besides cartoons (Armenian, some Russian) there are kids’ movies in English or dubbed in Armenian or Russian. But the greatest thing about this channel is kids interview other kids, the kids run the programs! On other channels they also have kids’ shows, run by kids. The cultural side of things is beautiful and at any time of day you can find at least one channel playing folk dances and (modern) Armenian music video clips.
While I’m on about TV…..the cable TV here has a (Europe) Football Channel (24 hours). Having said that, on Saturday nights free to air TV has at least three channels broadcasting European Football matches during prime time. Armenians here love their football. In the afternoon the streets are littered with groups of five or more young boys kicking around a football. The only other sports here are chess and wrestling, which plainly come a very far second and third to football. So far I’ve seen mostly Liverpool FC and Manchester United jerseys being worn in the streets.
In the last month smoking restrictions have come in force. Cigarettes can not be sold to minors now (under 18). By the end of the year they will have developed non-smoking areas in restaurants and public places and by next year their aim is to ban smoking altogether in some places.
Although the snow is all gone in Yerevan, it is still cold (between 9 and 15 degrees during the day). However I’ve been told that next week it will be summer, because the change in season happens quickly here.
Once the weather warms up I’m looking forward to visiting Etchmiadzin and other churches, as well as ruins and little, untouched villages about 100km away.
For a baby that is only 13 years old, Armenia is doing just great and better still she is constantly improving and growing.
Rose-Leah's passionate for Armenia blog 